Germany and Austria

A monumental tasting at work the other day of some stellar German and Austrian wines resulted in not a little leftovers...appropriated by yours truly in a short space of time and consumed rapidly.

Wines -

1 - 1996 Domane Wachau 'Kellerberg' Smaragd Gruner Veltliner
2 - 2007 Heymann Lowenstein GG 'Rottgen' Riesling
3 - 2007 Wittman GG 'Aulerde' Riesling
4 - 2006 Donhoff 'Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg' Spatlese Riesling



Wine number one was a new experience for me - never had i previously tasted an aged Gruner, let alone one of Smaragd quality.

-interlude : Smaragd is a classification used exclusively within the Wachau for Rieslings and Gruner Veltliners and refers to the potential sugar levels and by association the alcohol levels, similar to the pradikat system in Germany. Smaragd is the highest rating, reserved for wines of alcohol 12.5% or higher, often with a sweetness level somewhere between kabinett and spatlese. Below this is federspiel and steinfeder. -

With age this wine has taken on nutty, almost cheesy characteristics....almost dare i say it puligny in character?? it still had nerve and verve, but was a wine of undoubted power and grace. Beautiful melon fruit with a touch of cinnamon.

Wine two was outstanding. Heymann-Lowenstein is one of the more innovative producers in the Mosel today and is making a range of dry rieslings from different sites, including many Grosse Gewachs (GG), essentially Mosel Grand Cru.

The Rottgen is picked at sugar levels nearing auslese capacity, then fermented dry. It is a driving wine, packed with spice, sweet fruit (pears and peaches) and a fine, deep mineral quality. It is not a shy, delicate wine, but a wine built to impress. Powerful and opulent, it is a modern mosel.

Wine three I seem to have lost my notes on, but judging by a tasting of the WIttmann trocken riesling last nite, it impresses with a fine minerality and a touch of honey/acacia on the nose and fine fruit, full of finesse.

Wine four was delightful in a classic Mosel style... except it was from further east! Rippling with sweet fruit, it struck that perfect balance between sugar and acid, and was eminently drinkable because of it. Apricot, fresh white and yellow flowers, tangerine and a delicate sea shell quality. This bottle was gone in sixty seconds it seemed, everybody loved it. The acidity was so bright, so fresh, so clean, it invigorated you as you drank it. Hooray for the Nahe. Hooray for Donhoff.

Hooray for Germany.

Sommelier's Lunch

When sommeliers get together outside of work, it is generally for one of two reasons -
a) talk about wine
b) drink wine

Let's go with option b

Location - Ormeggio, Mosman (sorry to all the staff there)
Occasion - Boss's birthday
Date - Valentines Day (sorry to all those couple who had to put up with us)
Line Up - NV Bollinger en magnum
05 Georg Bruer 'Berg Roseneck' Riesling
98 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling
05 Doppf GC Schonenburg Riesling
07 Salomon 'Wieden' Gruner Veltliner
06 Montes Alpha Chardonnay
06 Henri Boillot Savigny les Beaunes 1er 'Les Vergelesses' Blanc
92 Leroy Chassagne Montrachet 1er
04 Isole e Olena Cepparello en magnum (2 separate bottles!)
04 Ornellaia - double magnum



If I tell you the day ended with shots of Patron XO Cafe, me chatting up a redhead, two people covered in margarita and us nearly being arrested, perhaps you will forgive my lack of tasting notes.

The Ornellaia was stunning, rich, concentated, sooty minerality and polished tannins.
The Leroy was tired but still complex.



The Boillot was excellent, soft, mellow yet racy (does that make sense?), high tuned and savoury.



I also enjoyed the Doppf, although it was a little soapy.



The Montes sucked...but i expected it to :)

A delightful if somewhat trashy day...

Initial(e)

A brief note on a great wine.

NV Jacques Selosse Initial (my bottle was labelled thus, but i have seen it with an 'e' on the end.....bizarre.



Rich, lifted nose.
Honey, fig, almonds and treacle. Baked apples.
Very frothy.
Texture is silken yet biting, in and out - it rushes away and acidity coats the tongue, like the sea leaving the shore.
Like no other champagne I have ever tasted....notes will follow on others as I taste them this year.


All Selosse's Wines (from the Rare Wine Co.) :

Blanc de Blancs

Initial. Anselme’s “classic” Brut. An assemblage of three vintages. Aged 2 years before degorgement.

Version Originale. Anselme’s great multi-vintage cuvée is aged 42 months before degorgement, and bottled with little or no dosage.

Millésime. The Methode Selosse used to express the character of a single year.

Substance. Avize’s essence in a single wine, without regard to vintage variation. Made from a solera started in 1987. Profound.
(P-BOMB!!)

Exquise. A higher dosage makes this Sec the “cuvée Gourmand.”

Blanc de Noirs & Assemblage

Contraste. This wine allowed Selosse to work with Pinot Noir from Aÿ. Incredibly vinous and powerful.

Rosé. With just a hint of salmon color, this rosé almost transcends class; a unique wine.

Wine Tattoos Installment 2

So my mate saw my amazing tattoo and decided to get in on the action.

Whereas I prefer my textural, French whites, a certain S.Green enjoys light bodied reds from Germany.

The principal town at the centre of production for these wines, in the Rheingau, is Assmanhausen....



Simon we salute you.

The challenge is on