Germany and Austria

A monumental tasting at work the other day of some stellar German and Austrian wines resulted in not a little leftovers...appropriated by yours truly in a short space of time and consumed rapidly.

Wines -

1 - 1996 Domane Wachau 'Kellerberg' Smaragd Gruner Veltliner
2 - 2007 Heymann Lowenstein GG 'Rottgen' Riesling
3 - 2007 Wittman GG 'Aulerde' Riesling
4 - 2006 Donhoff 'Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg' Spatlese Riesling



Wine number one was a new experience for me - never had i previously tasted an aged Gruner, let alone one of Smaragd quality.

-interlude : Smaragd is a classification used exclusively within the Wachau for Rieslings and Gruner Veltliners and refers to the potential sugar levels and by association the alcohol levels, similar to the pradikat system in Germany. Smaragd is the highest rating, reserved for wines of alcohol 12.5% or higher, often with a sweetness level somewhere between kabinett and spatlese. Below this is federspiel and steinfeder. -

With age this wine has taken on nutty, almost cheesy characteristics....almost dare i say it puligny in character?? it still had nerve and verve, but was a wine of undoubted power and grace. Beautiful melon fruit with a touch of cinnamon.

Wine two was outstanding. Heymann-Lowenstein is one of the more innovative producers in the Mosel today and is making a range of dry rieslings from different sites, including many Grosse Gewachs (GG), essentially Mosel Grand Cru.

The Rottgen is picked at sugar levels nearing auslese capacity, then fermented dry. It is a driving wine, packed with spice, sweet fruit (pears and peaches) and a fine, deep mineral quality. It is not a shy, delicate wine, but a wine built to impress. Powerful and opulent, it is a modern mosel.

Wine three I seem to have lost my notes on, but judging by a tasting of the WIttmann trocken riesling last nite, it impresses with a fine minerality and a touch of honey/acacia on the nose and fine fruit, full of finesse.

Wine four was delightful in a classic Mosel style... except it was from further east! Rippling with sweet fruit, it struck that perfect balance between sugar and acid, and was eminently drinkable because of it. Apricot, fresh white and yellow flowers, tangerine and a delicate sea shell quality. This bottle was gone in sixty seconds it seemed, everybody loved it. The acidity was so bright, so fresh, so clean, it invigorated you as you drank it. Hooray for the Nahe. Hooray for Donhoff.

Hooray for Germany.